Last updated: August 2026
Reading time: 10 minutes
Reviewed by: Termofol Technical Team
Infrared heating film running costs are not determined by wattage alone. The final figure depends on the room’s heat loss, the area of film installed, the electricity tariff and, most importantly, how often the thermostat actually calls for heat.
This guide explains how to estimate the running cost of infrared heating film in an Irish home, why nominal power is not the same as continuous consumption, and which decisions make the biggest difference to your electricity bill.
Quick answer: Multiply the heated area by the film output to find the maximum connected load. Then multiply that figure by the system’s equivalent full-power running time and your electricity unit rate. In a correctly designed system, the thermostat cycles the heating on and off once the set temperature has been reached, so the film does not normally draw its full rated power continuously.
Table of contents
- What determines infrared heating film running costs?
- Nominal power versus actual electricity use
- How to calculate running costs
- A worked example for an Irish living room
- How much do different film outputs cost per hour?
- The seven factors that change the final bill
- How to reduce running costs
- Heating film compared with other electric heating
- Is heating film suitable as the main heat source?
- Frequently asked questions
What determines infrared heating film running costs?
Every electric resistance heater converts the electricity it uses into heat at the point of use. The important question is therefore not simply how efficient the heating element is, but how much heat the room needs and how precisely the system delivers it.
The heat demand of a room changes with the weather and with the building itself. A well-insulated bedroom with modern windows may need comparatively little energy to maintain a comfortable temperature. A larger room with several external walls, air leakage and older glazing will lose heat faster and require the system to run for longer.
This is why two rooms with the same floor area can have very different infrared heating film running costs.
The main inputs are:
- the heated floor area in square metres;
- the selected film output in watts per square metre;
- the room’s heat loss;
- the thermostat schedule and set temperature;
- the electricity price in euro per kilowatt-hour;
- the floor construction and insulation;
- the proportion of the day for which the system is actively heating.
If you are new to the technology, begin with our guide to how infrared heating film works.
Nominal power versus actual electricity use
https://termofol.ie/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/insulation-under-infrared-heating-film.webpTERMOFOL infrared heating film is available in several nominal outputs, including 80, 140, 180 and 220 W/m². This rating tells you the electrical power used by one square metre of film while it is switched on at full output.
It does not mean that the film consumes that amount every hour of the day.
Once the room or floor reaches the set temperature, the thermostat interrupts the power. It switches the system on again only when more heat is required. The percentage of time for which the system is energised is sometimes called the duty cycle.
For example, a 2 kW installation that is energised for a total equivalent of three full-power hours during a day uses approximately 6 kWh, not 48 kWh. The three hours may be made up of many shorter heating cycles rather than one continuous period.
A higher-output film can also reach the target temperature faster. It should not be assumed that moving from 140 W/m² to 220 W/m² will increase the seasonal bill in the same proportion. Over time, the building’s heat loss and the control strategy are more important than the label on the film. Correct output must still be selected through a room-by-room assessment.
How to calculate running costs
Use this four-step method for a simple maximum-load estimate.
1. Calculate the heated area
Measure only the floor that will contain heating film. Exclude fixed kitchen units, fitted wardrobes, baths, shower trays and areas below furniture that does not provide suitable airflow.
Heating film does not have to cover 100% of the room. A well-planned layout commonly prioritises usable open floor area. The available coverage must, however, be sufficient to meet the calculated heat loss if the system is intended as the main heating source.
2. Calculate the connected load
Heated area (m²) × film output (W/m²) ÷ 1,000 = connected load (kW)
3. Estimate equivalent full-power running time
Do not automatically use the full scheduled period. After warm-up, a thermostat-controlled system cycles on and off. For a meaningful estimate, use monitored consumption, a professional heat-loss calculation or the annual energy-demand method in the TERMOFOL underfloor heating cost calculator.
4. Apply your electricity unit rate
Connected load (kW) × equivalent full-power hours × electricity price (€/kWh) = estimated cost
Use the unit rate from your own electricity bill, including the rate that applies at the time you expect to heat. Tariffs change, so a generic online figure can quickly become outdated. The Commission for Regulation of Utilities lists approved electricity price-comparison websites for Irish consumers.
A worked example for an Irish living room
Consider a 20 m² living room where 14 m², or 70% of the floor, can be heated. The selected film output is 140 W/m².
Maximum connected load
14 m² × 140 W/m² ÷ 1,000 = 1.96 kW
At an illustrative electricity rate of €0.30/kWh, one full-power hour would cost:
1.96 kW × €0.30 = €0.59 per full-power hour
If the thermostat produces the equivalent of three full-power hours per day:
1.96 kW × 3 hours = 5.88 kWh per day
5.88 kWh × €0.30 = €1.76 per day
€1.76 × 30 days = approximately €52.90 per 30-day month
This is a calculation example, not a prediction for every 20 m² room. A poorly insulated space may require substantially more energy. A well-insulated room, a milder month or a shorter schedule may require less. Standing charges are excluded because they are not caused by the heating system itself.
How much do different film outputs cost per hour?
The table below shows the maximum one-hour consumption for 10 m² of heating film. It uses an illustrative electricity price of €0.30/kWh.
| Film output | Maximum load for 10 m² | Energy in one full-power hour | Illustrative cost per full-power hour |
|---|---|---|---|
| 80 W/m² | 0.80 kW | 0.80 kWh | €0.24 |
| 140 W/m² | 1.40 kW | 1.40 kWh | €0.42 |
| 180 W/m² | 1.80 kW | 1.80 kWh | €0.54 |
| 220 W/m² | 2.20 kW | 2.20 kWh | €0.66 |
These are full-load figures, not expected hourly averages across a day or heating season. Replace €0.30 with the current unit rate from your electricity plan. You can review the available TERMOFOL infrared heating film outputs and specifications before requesting a room-by-room recommendation.
The seven factors that change the final bill
1. Building insulation and airtightness
The less heat a building loses, the less energy is needed to replace it. Roof, wall and floor insulation, window performance and draught control can all reduce the time for which the film must remain energised. SEAI recommends starting a home energy upgrade with insulation, windows and doors because retaining heat improves comfort and reduces heating demand.
2. Insulation directly beneath the film
A suitable insulation layer beneath the heating film helps direct heat towards the floor finish and reduces downward loss. It can also improve response time, especially over a cold subfloor. The complete floor build-up must be compatible with the final floor covering and the system instructions.
3. Heated floor coverage
Installing film only where it can release heat safely avoids wasting material. However, too little heated area may force the available film to work for longer or leave it unable to meet the design heat loss. Layout and output must be considered together.
4. Thermostat zoning and schedules
One thermostat per room allows the kitchen, bedroom, living room and home office to follow different schedules. This prevents an occupied zone from forcing heat into unused rooms. TERMOFOL smart thermostats and controls support precise programming and room-by-room management.
5. Set temperature
Every additional degree increases the difference between indoor and outdoor temperature, which increases heat loss. Choose the lowest setting that remains comfortable and avoid large manual adjustments. A steady, sensible schedule is usually more useful than repeatedly overheating and cooling the room.
6. Floor finish and temperature limits
Laminate, engineered wood and other floating floors must be approved by their manufacturer for use with underfloor heating. The thermostat’s floor sensor should enforce the floor manufacturer’s maximum temperature. A high-resistance or unsuitable covering slows heat transfer and can impair performance.
For the correct layer order and installation precautions, see our complete heating film installation guide for laminate flooring.
7. Electricity tariff and time of use
The same number of kilowatt-hours can cost different amounts under different plans. If your home has a smart meter, compare day, night and peak rates and schedule heating only where this supports comfort and does not conflict with the floor manufacturer’s limits. Always calculate with the tariff you actually pay.
How to reduce running costs
The best savings come from reducing heat demand and improving control, not from leaving the room uncomfortable.
- Start with heat loss. Check the BER, insulation, glazing, exposed walls and ventilation before selecting output.
- Use the correct insulation layer. Install the specified underlay continuously beneath the film where the system design requires it.
- Create separate room zones. Heat occupied rooms according to their real schedules.
- Programme the thermostat. Avoid heating an empty home or maintaining daytime temperatures overnight.
- Use the floor sensor. Protect the floor finish and prevent unnecessary surface temperatures.
- Do not trap heat. Keep film away from prohibited fixed furniture and follow the required clearances.
- Choose output from a calculation. The highest wattage is not automatically the best choice, and the lowest wattage may not cover the room’s heat loss.
- Review the electricity plan. Compare the complete tariff, not only a headline discount.
- Track real consumption. Smart-meter or sub-meter data provides a better basis for optimisation than guesswork.
SEAI’s general guidance also recommends heating spaces only when needed and using suitable controls to match heating schedules to occupancy.
Heating film compared with other electric heating
Infrared heating film, panel heaters, convectors and electric radiators are all direct electric heating systems. At the point of use, one kilowatt-hour of electricity becomes approximately one kilowatt-hour of heat. Their practical performance differs in how the heat is distributed, how the room feels and how accurately individual zones can be controlled.
Heating film spreads warmth across a large floor area and keeps walls free of radiators. Its low build-up can be particularly useful in renovations, apartments, extensions and individual rooms. It also allows independent schedules without a boiler, pipework or water circuit.
A heat pump works differently. It moves heat rather than creating it solely through electrical resistance, so a suitable heat-pump system can deliver several units of heat for each unit of electricity. This may give it a lower running cost for continuous whole-house heating in an appropriate, well-upgraded property. The initial works, space requirements and project scope are also different.
The correct comparison therefore depends on the building and use case:
- for a single renovated room or an extension, low-profile film and independent control may be attractive;
- for intermittent rooms, zoning and rapid response can avoid heating the whole property;
- for continuous whole-house heating, compare annual heat demand, capital cost, tariff, maintenance and the performance of every realistic option.
Avoid any quote that compares heating systems only by product wattage. A fair comparison begins with the same room heat loss and the same comfort schedule.
Is heating film suitable as the main heat source?
It can be, but only when the installed output can cover the design heat loss of the room.
The assessment should include:
- the room’s area and volume;
- BER and insulation standard;
- external walls, roof and floor exposure;
- windows, doors and ventilation;
- the outdoor design condition;
- the percentage of floor available for heating;
- the compatible maximum floor temperature;
- electrical load and circuit design.
Lower outputs such as 80 or 140 W/m² may suit supplementary heating or spaces with low heat demand. Higher outputs such as 180 or 220 W/m² may be considered where more capacity is required, but they should not be selected without checking floor compatibility, available coverage and heat loss.
The film layout can be prepared as part of a renovation project, but final electrical work must be completed and verified in accordance with Irish requirements by a Safe Electric Registered Electrical Contractor. Do not energise the system before the prescribed resistance and insulation tests have been completed.
Estimate your project before buying
An honest running-cost estimate needs more than the total floor area. Prepare the following information before requesting a quotation:
- room dimensions and ceiling height;
- a simple floor plan showing fixed furniture;
- BER or known insulation details;
- window and external-wall dimensions;
- planned floor covering and its underfloor-heating limit;
- intended room temperature and operating schedule;
- current electricity unit rate;
- whether the system will be the main or supplementary heat source.
Use the TERMOFOL underfloor heating cost calculator for an initial estimate. For system sizing, send the room details to the Termofol Technical Team so that film output, coverage, thermostat load and floor construction can be checked together.
Frequently asked questions
Does infrared heating film run continuously?
No. A correctly controlled system switches off when the thermostat reaches the target room or floor temperature and switches on again when heat is required. Actual running time depends on heat loss, weather, schedule and set temperature.
How much electricity does 10 m² of heating film use?
At full output, 10 m² uses 0.8 kW with 80 W/m² film, 1.4 kW with 140 W/m², 1.8 kW with 180 W/m² or 2.2 kW with 220 W/m². Multiply that load by the equivalent full-power running time to calculate kWh.
Is infrared heating film cheap to run?
It can be cost-effective in a suitable, well-insulated and correctly controlled room, particularly where independent zoning avoids heating unused spaces. The final cost depends on the building’s heat demand and the electricity tariff, so no single cost-per-square-metre figure is reliable for every home.
Does higher-wattage film always cost more to run?
It costs more during each minute at full power, but it may also reach the target temperature faster. Seasonal energy use is governed mainly by the heat the room loses. Select wattage to meet the calculated requirement rather than choosing on hourly cost alone.
Can solar PV reduce heating film running costs?
Yes, when heating demand coincides with available solar generation or suitable energy storage. Winter solar production is lower than summer production, so the system should not be described as free to run unless a project-specific energy balance supports that claim.
Do I need to cover the entire floor?
No. Film is normally planned around usable open floor space and kept away from prohibited fixed furniture. The percentage installed must still provide enough total output to meet the room’s heat loss if it is intended as the primary heat source.
What is the most important cost-saving component?
There is no single component that compensates for high building heat loss. Good insulation, a correct floor build-up and a programmable thermostat with room and floor sensing work together to reduce unnecessary consumption.
Plan an efficient infrared heating film system
The most useful question is not “How many watts does the film use?” but “How much heat does this room need, and for how long?” Once heat loss, available floor area and the tariff are known, infrared heating film running costs can be estimated transparently.
Explore infrared heating film systems or contact Termofol Ireland for help with room-by-room sizing, compatible components and a project quotation.